John Deere Ground Driven Corn Binder
Reprinted from Operator’s Manual No. OM-W4-649, 1951
The economical and efficient operation of any machine is dependent upon regular and proper lubrication of moving parts with a quality lubricant. Greasing is just as vital to the service life of farm machinery as is the use of proper lubrication oil in the crankcase of an automobile or tractor. Neglect leads to reduced efficiency, heavy draft, wear, breakdown and costly replacement of parts.
Wipe dust from fittings before greasing. Use a high-grade grease in grease gun; replace all missing grease fittings at once.
Use a good grade of heavy machine oil in oil can. Keep cutting parts oiled except in dry, dusty and sandy conditions, where cutting parts work best without oil.
Lubricate machine thoroughly twice a day – morning and noon. Bearings carrying fast moving parts should also be lubricated in mid-morning and mid-afternoon.
Keep knotter parts, small rollers and faces of pinions and cams well oiled. When binder is not in use, these parts should be kept oiled to prevent rust.
Keep chains well oiled, except when working in dry and dusty conditions. Lubricate chains by brushing with heavy oil.
Lubricate all parts thoroughly, but avoid excessive lubrication. Excessive lubrication will gather dirt and dust.
OPERATION AND ADJUSTMENT
IF TROUBLE IS EXPERIENCED, DETERMINE WHERE IT EXISTS BEFORE MAKING ADJUSTMENTS. The binder attachment is adjusted when it leaves the factory, and will operate under average conditions without adjusting. Make no adjustments until all paint is worn off and important working parts are smooth. Successful operation depends largely on proper adjustment of all chains and the manipulation of levers for height of cut, position of butt pan, and tilting. These adjustments are provided to meet varying or extreme conditions. If knotter or twine tension adjustments are made and do not correct trouble, be sure to change back to original position, before making further adjustments.
CAUTION: Keep all nuts, set screws, pins, and keys tight. Keep cotter pins spread.
Height of Machine on Wheels.
Main and grain wheels usually work best at same height. If traction conditions are bad, run machine a little lower on the main wheel side.
The grain wheel axle, Figure 2, is constructed so weight of machine may be shifted to front or rear, to properly balance machine with any equipment.
Set wheel to rear between points “A” and “B,” Figure 2, to keep stiff pole from whipping or to have necessary weight on tongue truck.
Shift grain wheel to front (between points “A” and “C,” Figure 2) on binder with stiff pole and without bundle carrier.
Keep all chains well oiled. Do not run too tight — to do so causes excessive wear and increases draft.
Main Drive Chain. Run hook end of link forward, with slotted or open side toward the outside. Arrow on top side of link shows direction of travel. (See Figures 18 and 19.) Chain should not be any tighter than necessary to keep it from climbing sprockets or jumping. Tension is regulated by adjustable tightener. (See Figure 19.)
Packer Drive Chain. Run hook end of link forward, with slotted or open side toward the outside. Chain should be just tight enough so it will not climb packer gear sprocket. Tension is regulated by adjustable tightener. Tightener sprocket goes on underside of chain. (See Figure 37.)
Main Gatherer Chains. Run with flat side of lug against corn. Main and middle gatherer chains have simple and effective cam tightener. To adjust, loosen bolt through lower sprocket and cam, and turn cam until chain is at proper tension. Then tighten bolt. (See Figures 3 and 33.)
Top Gatherer Chains. The inner and outer top chain tightener brackets are adjustable up and down for tension of top chains. (See Figure 5.)
Butt Chain. To take up wear, loosen nut on bolt through butt chain idler sprocket; and tighten nut at “A,” Figure 4. Do not set chain too tight.
Top Chains. Top chain tightener brackets, inner and outer, can be moved out or in to give throat more or less capacity. (See 1, Figure 5.) When cutting very tall ensilage corn, if wind is unfavorable and corn is topheavy, top chains should be set close together to bring the tops back promptly. If less aggressive action is desired, set the chains farther apart to retard the tops. Flat side of lug should run next to corn. (See 2, Figure 5.)
Throat Springs. Throat Springs are fastened to adjustable brackets. They should have only enough tension to hold stalks into chains. Where there is a heavy undergrowth, adjust brackets to set springs tightly against chains. Chains will then elevate trash better and keep pan cleaner. (See Figure 36.)
Retarding Springs. IMPORTANT: Do not fail to make use of the retarding spring when tops are carried back faster than the butts, particularly in cutting unusually light or short corn. To retard the tops, end of spring should be set tight against binder deck by means of adjustable brackets. (See Figures 6 and 34.)
IMPORTANT. For cutting short corn, set top chains farther apart if, after adjusting retarding spring, tops are carried back too fast or faster than the butts.
Corn Butt Rod.
The corn butt rod on rear of pan holds butts so they do not leave the pan too soon when bundle is discharged. This insures better delivery to the carrier.
In short corn where there is a heavy undergrowth, it is often advisable to remove this rod.
The front inner sickle head guide, Figure 7, has slotted holes which permit adjustment to take up wear on sickle head.
There must be no binding of the sickle, but all bolts should be tight and sickle head guides set so there will be a shear cut.
NOTE: Sharpen stationary side knives frequently. Be sure to put them back with bevel edges down.
Clutch and Clutch Sprocket.
Removing Clutch. (See Figure 8.) Remove inner coupling for power bundle carrier drive shaft and main drive shaft sprocket. Drive out position pin “A,” Figure 8, in clutch sprocket and pull out drive shaft to the right through clutch parts.
In down corn, tilting lever should be set so that gatherers will run with points close to ground. (See Figure 57.)
Butt Pan Lever.
Operate with pan down as low as possible. Raise pan only when necessary to place band closer to butts.
Threading the Binder.
To thread machine, insert twine under ball tension in twine can cover, through roller tension, slack lever, twine guide, through needle and over needle roller as shown in Figure 9. The twine is placed in disk by holding end of twine securely in throat next to breastplate and turning discharge arms around by hand.
Twine should be under 8 to 10 pounds of tension. This amount of tension is ample to take up the slack. To test the twine tension, thread the machine, with this exception: Do not bring the needle over to get the twine in the disk. Tie a loop in twine, hook scale in loop and pull twine though the needle eye, pulling on a line parallel with the binder deck. Then tighten, or loosen, the twine roller tension spring on support pipe as the case may require. Be sure that rollers turn freely with pull of twine, and that coil spring has free action. DO NOT TIGHTEN THIS SPRING TO MAKE TIGHT BUNDLES.
The needle must, in all cases, come well over against the knife arm in order to carry and place the twine so that the knotter hook will not revolve under the needle twine, in which case, the binder will tie a knot in one end of the band only, discharging it, in most instances, with the loose bundle. When binder is turned over empty, the needle must press hard against the knife arm in order to come over far enough, when a bundle is being formed, to place tine securely in the disk notches. The needle roller should clear the disk ¼” when needle passes through knotter frame. The needle should also set up close to the knotter pinion when passing through the knotter frame to readily place the twine in the disk notch. If it should be found necessary to advance the needle, do so by shortening the needle pitman one or more threads, as the case may require. The needle pitman adjustment may have been lengthened and this may be the only cause for missed bundles.
Adjusting collars are located on knotter shaft between knotter and discharge arm. They are adjustable to take up wear and keep face of knotter pinions running close, but smoothly, against tyer wheel. Keep set screw in discharge arm hub tight.
(Figures 10 and 11.) No adjustments should be made unless absolutely sure that trouble lies with the knotter. Adjustments should be made with caution.
ALWAYS CHECK THE FOLLOWING ITEMS BEFORE ADJUSTING THE KNOTTER. Be sure twine is under the proper tension. Be sure twine is being pulled freely from the ball and is properly threaded through roller tension, guides, and needle. (See Figure 9.) Be sure twine knife is sharp; a keen cutting edge is needed. The twine knife should be sharpened frequently with a carborundum or oil stone. Never use a file.
Knotter Cam Spring. The knotter cam spring should be just tight enough so when twine is stripped off knotter hook by knife arm, the ends of twine will be held securely by knotter tongue until drawn through and a tight knot made. Do not tighten spring too tight.
Twine Holder or Disk Tension. The twine tension at the twine holder or disk should be 35 to 40 pounds. (Figure 12.) If flat twine holder spring is too loose, as knotter hook turns, twine will slip out of disk; if too tight, twine will break. To test the tension on twine holder or disk, thread the machine ready for tying and turn the binder over, complete the knot, and take off this band so as to have the twine securely in the disk. Tie a loop in twine, and with scale, pull at same angle from knotter frame as shown in Figure 12, illustrating this test on the grain binder. Tighten or loosen the twine holder spring to get the required pressure. Never make more than a quarter turn of the set screw at one time, as they may be all that is necessary. Be sure to tighten the lock nut. Be sure that you have the washer between the twine holder spring and the knotter frame. Remember that the set screw screws into the knotter frame and that the lock nut must be loosened before making any adjustments.
Size of Bundles.
Making Bundles Smaller. To decrease the size of bundles, loosen nuts at “A,” Figure 3, and move trip fingers “B” toward breastplate. Tighten nuts at “A”.
Making Bundles Larger. Loosen nuts at “A,” Figure 13, and move trip fingers “B” away from breastplate to increase the size of bundles. Tighten nuts at “A.”
Making Bundles Tighter. If bundles are too loose remove bolts “C,” Figure 13, and move compressor finger in on arms. Tighten bolts “C.”
Timing Binder Attachment.
Cam gear has timing rib or mark on tooth near the arm for needle pitman connection. Pinion on left-hand end of cross shaft has two marked teeth. The marked cam gear tooth must mesh between the two marked teeth on the pinion. After meshing cam gear and pinion, be sure discharge arms are set in “home” position and that binder lock sets snugly against needle pitman connection on cam gear.
Pinion on right-hand end of cross shaft also has two marked teeth, “A,” Figure 14. Trip dog pinion has one tooth marked with an arrow, “B,” Figure 14. This arrowed tooth should be slipped into mesh with the pinion on right-hand end of cross shaft between the two marked teeth.
Binder is properly timed when gears mesh as described above and trip dog is against trip stop with only 1/8” clearance with trip dog spring fully compressed — at the same time, binder lock must set tight in pocket in needle pitman connection on cam gear.
When binder attachment is correctly timed, and binder lock properly adjusted, the discharge arms are locked “home” solidly. With the discharge arms in this position, the binder lock sets snugly in the pocket in needle pitman connection on cam gear.
To prevent undue wear on the binding attachment generally and particularly on the trip dog pinion, it is important to keep the binder lock setting snugly against needle pitman connection on cam gear.
When play exists between binder lock and cam gear, adjust by loosening nut on bolt holding lock to frame. Also loosen lock nut on adjusting bolt and turn adjusting bolt to pull lock back. The bolt hole in frame is slotted. Be sure binder lock is adjusted so that discharge arms are locked solidly. Tighten nuts.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR TYING TROUBLES
In locating causes of tying troubles, first examine twine in box to be sure it is unwinding freely; then follow the twine through the roller tension, twine guides, needle and disk. Examine the roller tension and slack arm carefully, and be sure that the tension is sufficient to keep the twine from getting slack. See that the tension rollers are working freely, that the slack arm on tension is not binding.
Remember that uneven, weak or other kinds of poor twine cause many missed bundles. Dried-out twine, or twine that is wet, causes trouble.
The needle point should be sharp and smooth, and surface of needle smooth from point to hub.
If some part of the complete knotter is not working as it should, the previous instructions should be carefully followed. Particular attention should be paid to twine tension, needle, and twine knife.
If the binder then continues to throw out loose bundles, the usual kinds of defective bands, and the cause for same, will be found as follows:
If there is a knot in only one end of the band and the other end is cut square, as though cut off with a sharp knife, twine holder spring is too loose. See Figure 11. This band is usually found with the bundle.
If there is a knot in only one end and the other end of this band is flattened out, torn or ragged, the twine holder spring is too tight. See Figure 11. This band will be found with the bundle.
If there is no knot in either end of the band, the knotter hook cam spring is too loose. See Figure 10. This band is usually found with the bundle.
If the band is hanging on the knotter hook and is broken by the bundle being discharged, then the knotter hook cam spring is too tight. See Figure 10.
When picking up a bundle with the band around it, if one end slips out, the disk may be slow. As the knotter hook revolves, the hook passes between the strands of twine because the disk has not turned far enough to place both strands down where the knotter hook and tongue can grasp them. This happens on old knotters due to wear. Put one or two washers just above worm on worm shaft to advance the disk just the amount necessary. If this defective knot happens on new binder, twine holder spring usually needs to be tightened slightly.
If the band is found tied in slip noose around bundle with the twine extending from bundle to eye of needle, the needle has failed to place twine in disk. If roller at needle point is badly worn, replace with new needle roller.
Hitching Tongue Truck.
In order to turn to the best advantage with the tongue truck, it is necessary to hitch the team and adjust the neckyoke slide bolt so that the neckyoke works to the front end of the slide when the team is going forward. Then, when turning, the neckyoke can slide back freely on the bolt and the pole team will not pull back and down on the tongue in such a way as to tip the truck. At the same time, this gives the outside horse a chance to travel ahead freely and without pulling up on the hitch. Most of the turning is done by the pole team. The binder is pivoted on the main wheel, making a shorter, more square turn at the corners.
Care of Chains.
For best results, put chain on sprockets as shown.
Run chains just tight enough to do the work. Draft and wear are materially increased by having them too tight. If chains are too loose, they climb sprockets, break the links, and wear the chain and sprockets rapidly.
Run chains with slot side out and with hook end pointing in direction of sprocket rotation. (See Figure 16.)
To detach, use tooth of sprocket for brace, bend to position shown in Figure 16, and strike lightly at point indicated by arrow.
Replacing Box in Wheel Hub.
The original box has a smooth tapered surface and is cast in wheel, but may be removed and replaced. The repair box “A,” Figure 17, has a 3-point bearing in wheel hub and is somewhat different in appearance from the original.
Removing Box. Remove oil pipe and retaining nut.
Stand wheel on floor and holding with one hand, tap box lightly with a hammer on outer end. The box, being tapered, can easily be driven out of wheel hub.
Replacing Repair Box. Stand wheel on floor. Place repair box “A,” Figure 17, in correct position in wheel with key lug lined up with slot in hub.
Tap the box lightly with a hammer until it is just tight in the hub. To do this, place a wood block on end of box and drive box into position in wheel hub by striking the block rather than the wheel box direct.
CAUTION: Do not drive box too hard or you may break the wheel hub. The box is held tightly in hub by the contact of the 3 bearing points at each end of box.
In cases where box does not go in easily, file the lugs a little at the points where they bind. Care should be taken not to file away too much, as very little filing will allow box to enter hub.
Screw retaining nut very tightly against the hub of wheel on outer end to hold the box firmly in place. Replace oil pipe.
SATISFACTORY SERVICE DEPENDS ON PROPER SETTING UP AND THOROUGH LUBRICATION
The John Deere Ground Driven Binder is set up as illustrated and described in the following pages. If these instructions and illustrations are followed carefully, little or no trouble will be experienced. Where the illustrations and instructions are numbered or lettered, follow closely the order in which they are numbered or lettered.
When bolting on parts, do not tighten each bolt as it is installed. Put in all bolts loosely at first and then tighten after each unit is completely in place. Be sure all washers are in place on the bolts and that all cotter pins are spread.
Lubricate all bearings and working parts freely when setting up the machine. Be sure grease fittings are not clogged. Brush chains freely with heavy oil.
A little extra care in setting up your John Deere Corn Binder will result in greater satisfaction and longer wear.
Wherever the terms “left” and “right” are used, it should be understood to mean from a position behind, and facing, the machine.
MAIN AND GRAIN WHEELS
1. (Figures 18 and 19.) Tip main frame on rear end. Remove lower stop bolt in sector. Set main wheel in place with raising crank over frame, at the same time placing rear end of main chain tightener bracket over main drive shaft box between clutch sprocket and oil chamber on top and between clutch sprocket and lug on bottom of box. Then put fork at front end of tightener over main wheel raising pinion. Oil raising mechanism. Turn raising and lowering crank until starting teeth on gears enter sectors. GEARS MUST ENTER SECTORS EVENLY. Replace stop bolt in sector. Batter the threads to prevent bolt from working loose. Wire raising crank to main frame.
2. Place a prop under the right-hand side of main frame.
3. (Figures 18 and 20.) Attach grain wheel axle assembly. Remove bolts in outer axle bracket at “A” and loosen bolt at “B.” Insert axle into inner axle bracket and bolt outer axle bracket to front side and brace to rear side of main frame crossbar. Bolt support braces to outer axle bracket at “C” and “D.”
4. (Figure 21.) Slip grain wheel raising crank support post, with link, over raising crank and bolt support post to main frame.
5. (Figure 18.) Attach grain wheel with Zerk toward the inside. Grease axle and fill hub of wheel with grease. Place washers on each end of hub. Roller bearing is packed in twine can. Remove prop. For setting of grain wheel see “Height of Machine on Wheels.”
6. (Figures 18 and 19.) Attach main chain (54 links, type “D”) with the hook end forward and open side out.
7. (Figure 19.) Set chain tightener pulley to give chain medium tension. Be sure to tighten bolt securely. (See “Chains.”)
8. (Figure 18.) Raise butt pan and bolt pan raising lever to lever socket with the hand latch forward.
9. (Figure 18.) Bolt butt rod to butt pan. Figure 22 shows the main wheel equipped with spade lugs and mud scraper. Set mud scraper at “A” so that it sets in center of wheel groove.
1. (Figure 24.) Remove binder attachment support bar, inner, from main frame.
2. With needle in tying position and butt pan raised to high position, lay attachment on floor or ground. Tip main frame back, as shown in Figure 23, and bolt at “A.” Lift attachment into place and bolt at “B,” then at “C,” Figure 23. Binder support angle at “C” goes to outside of main frame sill. Bolt packer drive chain idler sprocket brace to binder attachment at “D,” Figure 23. DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS. Let front end of machine down and place a block or box under rear end of main frame.
3. (Figure 24.) Bolt binder support bar, inner, to binder frame. Be sure bend in bar is “up” as shown. Then bolt at “D” and “E,” Figure 24, at the same time hooking bevel and cam gear shield “H” in hinges. DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS.
4. (Figure 23.) Bolt butt chain stripper to upper butt board.
1. Set deck into position and bolt loosely to binder attachment frame at “A,” “B” and “C,” Figure 25.
2. (Figure 25.) Bolt deck top extension to binder attachment as shown.
3. Slide bundle guide rod through gusset plate at “D,” and deck extension at “E.” Then bolt gusset plate to binder frame at “F,” Figure 25. Do not tighten any bolts until outer gatherer is bolted in place.
REAR THROAT SIDE
1. (Figure 26.) Attach rear throat side. First, bolt to butt chain board. Cam gear shield attached to rear throat side bolts to inside of support bar at “F” and “G,” Figure 24.
2. (Figure 26.) Bolt lower stripper for lower discharge arm, flexible, to discharge arm cam.
RAISING CRANK SUPPORT AND CLUTCH THROW-OUT
1. (Figure 27.) Slip support over main wheel raising crank at “A.” Pass clutch shifter crank through sector at “B” and at “C.” Bolt at “D” and “E,” Figure 27.
2. (Figure 27.) Slip clutch shifter crank support over crank at “F,” and bolt to main frame, as shown.
3. (Figure 28.) With clutch shifter “A” over clutch collar “B,” bolt clutch shifter to main frame as shown. Tighten bolt just enough to allow the shifter to operate freely. Secure nut with cotter pin.
4. (Figure 27.) Attach clutch shifter rod to clutch shifter and to clutch shifter crank. Adjust link connection so that jaws of clutch clear 1/8” to 1/4” when clutch is out of gear.
INNER GATHERER SUPPORT BRACE — DISCHARGE ARM STRIPPER SHIELD
1. (Figure 29.) Attach inner gatherer support brace, loosely. Bolt for top of brace is in the inner gatherer.
2. Tighten bolts in binder supports at “B,” “C,” “D” and “E,” Figures 23 and 24.
3. (Figure 29.) Bolt inner gatherer knuckle shield to butt chain board.
4. (Figure 29.) Attach discharge arm stripper shield as shown.
DECK THROAT SPRING
1. (Figure 30.) Insert front end of deck throat spring into slotted hole at front end of deck, from the inside, then bolt deck spring to stiffener bar and deck, as shown. Deck spring assists in discharge of bundles.
SHIELD FOR CLUTCH SHIFTER LEVER LINK
For binder without bundle carriers. Bolt H2891HW shield to rear of main frame as shown in Figure 31.
1. (Figure 32.) Assemble upper inner gatherer drive shaft with sprockets, to inner gatherer as shown. Hubs on sprockets must be up. Be sure that lug of bearing box sets down in groove of bearing box plate.
2. Tip binder up at front end and secure with prop.
3. (Figure 33.) Set inner gatherer in place with driven knuckle over drive knuckle. Bolt loosely at “A” and “B,” Figure 29, and “B,” Figure 33.
4. (Figure 33.) Attach middle gatherer support. First bolt to board, then drive lower end of support into position and bolt to inner gatherer angle. Be sure bearing box “A” sets down in bracket.
Slotted holes in breastplate angle permits setting gatherer angle to give proper clearance for sprocket. Important: Retarding spring is adjustable. (See Retarding Springs.)
5. (Figures 33 and 34.) Bolt middle gatherer loosely in place. Be sure that stripper and retarding spring are swung to the rear.
6. (Figure 33.) Bolt inner gatherer brace rod to gatherer board and to main frame.
7. (Figure 33.) Attach H1551 H inner gatherer top chain (38 links) with flat side of lug next to corn. Adjust chain tightener.
8. (Figure 33.) Attach H1253 H inner gatherer chain (101 links) with flat side of lug next to corn. Adjust chain tightener carefully.
9. (Figure 33.) Attach H1256 H inner gatherer lower middle chain (60 links) with flat side of lug next to corn. Adjust chain tightener carefully.
10. (Figure 33.) Bolt inner gathering point to gatherer board and inner gatherer angle.
11. Tighten all bolts in middle and inner gatherers and any others that have not been tightened up to this time.
1. (Figure 36.) Bolt throat springs to outer gatherer angle. Attach short spring first.
2. (Figure 35.) Assemble drive sprockets and shaft to outer gatherer. Attach upper sprocket with hub up and lower sprocket with hub down, as shown.
3. (Figures 35 and 36.) Secure top board to gatherer board.
4. Remove attaching bolts from outer gatherer before setting gatherer in place.
5. (Figure 36.) Set outer gatherer in place with driven knuckle over drive knuckle. Bolt at “A,” “B” and “C.” Swing gatherer supports up and bolt to gatherer board at “D” and “E,” Figure 36.
6. (Figure 36.) Bolt twine can to lower support, then attach upper support brace, as shown.
7. Tighten all bolts, including those at “A,” “B” and “C,” Figure 25.
8. (Figure 36.) attach H1550 H, outer gatherer top chain (52 links). Adjust chain carefully.
9. (Figure 36.) Attach H1252 H, outer gatherer chains (99 links). Adjust chain carefully.
10. (Figure 36.) Bolt outer gathering point to gatherer board and outer gatherer angle.
11. (Figure 36.) Bolt fender stick to underside of lower gatherer board. Put bolts in from top.
PACKER DRIVE CHAIN
1. (Figure 37.) Put on packer drive chain. Adjust tightener and tighten bolt at “A.” Sprocket goes on under side of chain, “B,” Figure 37. Tighten chain by adjusting at “C,” Figure 37.
2. (Figure 37.) Run hook end of link forward and slot or open side out.
3. (Figure 37.) Idler sprocket goes on top chain.
BUNDLE GUIDE RODS AND SEAT
NOTE: If binder is used with power bundle carrier, put on carrier before bundle guide rods, seat and seat spring are attached.
1. Attach bundle guide rods. Be sure to bolt guide rod clips as shown in Figure 38.
2. Bolt seat spring bracket to main frame. See “A,” Figure 46. Do not tighten bolts in bracket until bundle carrier foot lever bearing is attached.
3. Attach seat and spring as shown at “B,” Figure 46.
4. Tighten all bolts securely and spread cotter pins.
CHANGING ADJUSTABLE BINDER ATTACHMENT FROM LONG CORN TO SHORT CORN POSITION
1. (Figure 39.) Remove needle and key from needle shaft. Bolt in lower position as shown at “A,” Figure 40.
2. (Figure 39.) Remove twine guide and twine tension. Bolt in lower position on Binder support angle at “B,” Figure 40.
3. (Figure 41.) Remove stripper shield, also stripper brace angle support bracket at “A.”
4. (Figure 41.) Remove middle discharge arm and knotter adjusting cam bolt.
5. (Figure 41.) Remove bolt from breast plate. Slide complete knotter and breast plate assembly down on knotter shaft and rebolt breast plate as shown at “A,” Figure 42. Be sure to replace bolt in knotter adjusting cam and lower discharge arm.
6. Replace middle discharge arm at “B,” Figure 42.
7. (Figure 42.) Bolt stripper brace angle support bracket to outside of inner gatherer support brace.
8. (Figure 42.) Bolt stripper shield to breast plate support angle and stripper angle support bracket.
POWER BUNDLE CARRIER
1. (Figure 43.) Bolt support beam hook to outside of main frame.
2. (Figure 43.) Bolt support beam bracket to main frame, and place trunnion and bolt in position shown.
3. Attach carrier drive shaft to main drive shaft of corn binder with pin and cotter pin. Be sure to spread cotter pin through coupling and pin.
4. (Figures 43 and 45.) Bolt knuckle drive shield to inside of main frame.
5. (Figure 43.) Bolt shield to rear of main frame sill.
6. (Figure 45.) Secure support beam in carrier, with large plate at rear end of beam.
7. (Figure 44.) Bolt idler shaft shield rod bracket to bundle carrier side. Bracket goes between carrier side and bundle carrier support.
8. (Figure 44.) Remove cotter pin in main frame bolt, on which bundle carrier support attaches.
9. To attach the carrier slip steel support at inner end of a carrier over main frame bolt, Figure 44, at the same time setting the support beam in brackets and slipping drive shaft into clutch as shown in Figure 45. Secure beam with bolt through bracket. Be sure trunnion is in place on right-hand or inner side of support beam.
10. (Figure 44.) Replace cotter pin in main frame bolt, placing support between cotter pin and nut.
Be sure to attach foot lever bearing at rear of seat spring bracket as shown in Figure 46.
Maintain proper leverage for foot lever by adjusting as necessary at 1, Figure 47.
Keep clutch in proper mesh and control tension by adjusting as required at 2, Figure 47.
11. (Figure 44.) Hook hinged shield rod in idler shaft shield bracket, then hook rear bracket on rear sideboard onto shield rod and bolt rear sideboard to carrier.
12. (Figure 45.) Bolt front sideboard to carrier. Shield goes to outside of steel throat side.
13. Hook clutch shifter rod “A,” Figure 47, into clutch shifter as shown. Attach bell crank at “B,” Figure 47, with pin and cotter pin, and bolt foot lever at “C,” Figure 46.
14. (Figure 46.) Attach foot treadle strap.
15. (Figure 48.) Hook bundle carrier support rod into bracket on rear side of carrier, then secure upper end of rod to support bracket on binder frame with a cotter pin as shown.
Now, go over entire machine to be sure that all parts are properly attached and that all nuts are tight and cotter pins spread.
NOTE: Carefully study operating instructions before operating machine.
FINGER BUNDLE CARRIER
1. (Figure 49.) Remove rear inner bolt, securing center cross sill and main frame.
2. (Figure 49.) Attach truss rod angle bracket to breast plate support adjustable brace on binder frame.
3. (Figure 49.) Bolt upper truss rod and spring hook loosely to truss rod angle bracket. Bolt lower support rod “A,” Figure 49, to bundle carrier support loosely.
4. (Figures 49 and 50.) Set bundle carrier in position, with hook of bundle carrier support bracket to underside of main frame. Bolt bracket to main frame at center cross sill where short bolt at “1” was removed. Hook upper support rod into bundle carrier adjusting bracket.
5. (Figure 49.) Bolt lower support rod to outside of main frame.
6. (Figures 49 and 50.) Hook return spring in hook on bundle carrier pipe crank and spring hook on truss rod angle bracket.
7. Tighten all bolts.
8. (Figure 51.) Clamp foot dump crank to front main frame cross sill, as shown.
9. (Figures 49, 50 and 51.) Insert trip rod between sector and sector brace. Hook trip rod over bundle carrier pipe crank and secure to foot dump crank with cotter pin. Hook trip rod in foot dump crank from the outside as shown.
10. (Figure 49.) Adjust height of bundle carrier as necessary. Bundle Guide Rods may be bent if necessary to properly guide bundles into carrier.
TRACTOR HITCH WITH CONTROL LEVERS
1. (Figure 52.) Bolt hitch to binder main frame.
2. (Figure 52.) Bolt tilting frame angle to rear of main frame front sill. Bolt braces to rear and left side.
3. (Figure 52.) Bolt tilting sector to tractor hitch.
4. (Figure 52.) Attach tilting lever to sector with pin and cotter pins. Be sure dogs on tilting lever fit into notches on tilting sector. Detent rod is adjustable when lever is changed for convenience of operator.
5. (Figure 52.) Attach tilting lever connecting link pipe to tilting lever and tilting frame angle on binder frame.
6. (Figure 52.) Attach bundle carrier throw-out crank arm to bundle carrier trip lever with U-bolt and bolt bundle carrier throw-out crank stop behind front sill of main frame.
7. (Figure 52.) Hook bundle carrier shifter rod into throw-out crank arm and bolt shifter rod support to tilting lever. Shifter rod is adjustable for convenience of operator.
8. (Figure 52.) Tractor hitch is adjustable so that tricycle-type row-crop tractors as well as standard tread tractors may run with wheel between the rows.
POWER BUNDLE CARRIER TRIP FROM TRACTOR
Figure 53 illustrates how the bundle carrier is operated from the tractor.
CONNECTION FOR TONGUE TRUCK STUB TONGUE TO MAKE TRACTOR HITCH
Figure 54 illustrates a stub tongue converted to a tractor hitch.
TONGUE TRUCK AND 3-HORSE HITCH
1. (Figures 55-56.) Assemble tongue truck and attach to corn binder. Be sure to grease truck wheels freely.
2. Short singletree goes next to corn.
3. (Figure 57.) Attach tilting lever. When lever is at center notch in ratchet, bent end of crank at “A” should be about parallel with ground. Shoulder on crank must be drawn up tight in lever socket.
4. (Figure 57.) Bolt tool box to truck frame.
5. (Figure 57.) Extra holes provide additional adjustment for tilting.
6. (Figure 58.) Hitch team so that neckyoke is on forward end of neckyoke slide when team is going forward. This will give the horses more clearance for turning.
SETTING LEAD TONGUE AND TRANSPORTATION HOOK
1. (Figure 59.) Holes in front end of tongue hinge provide adjustment for pole, setting wheels to lead away from corn row. This will further overcome side draft.
2. (Figure 59.) Put hook and link in place as shown for two-horse hitch.
TRANSPORT RIM FOR SPADE LUG WHEEL
1. (Figure 60.) Transport rim is made in halves. It is not necessary to jack up main wheel to attach.
3-HORSE POLE ATTACHMENT
1. (Figure 61.) Hook draft rods in equalizer before bolting equalizer to tongue. Large washer goes between equalizer and tongue.
2. Attach pole and eveners to corn binder. Short singletree goes next to corn.
3. Attach tilting lever. When lever is at center notch in ratchet, bent end of crank of “A” should be about parallel with ground.
4. Secure tool box to top of pole with screws in pole.