John Deere No. 5 Caster-Wheel Power Mower

OPERATION

You will agree that careless setting up, careless operation and neglect are the causes of most troubles. This machine will continue to cut like a new mower, if properly oiled and kept in good repair. Cutting parts must be kept sharp; badly worn knife head guides, knife holders and wearing plates must be replaced and carefully set; guards must be kept in alignment; adjustments to restore alignment of knife and pitman and for registering knife sections in guards should be used whenever necessary; lifting spring should be properly adjusted and mower attached to tractor at correct height. Proper attention to these essentials insures clean cutting, light draft; continuous operation and low upkeep cost. The responsibility for this kind of service rests with the owner and operator.

ATTACHING AND DETACHING MOWER

The No. 5 Power Mower can be attached to practically any make of tractor. Illustrations show hookup equipment for several of the more common tractors for which “cut-to-fit” hookup parts are furnished. Study the illustrations showing your make of tractor carefully and use it as your guide in attaching mower. For tractors for which no “cut-to-fit” parts are furnished, see that section.

STARTING MOWER IN THE FIELD

Do not start tractor until mower has been carefully checked for correct setting up and assembly. See that all nuts are tight and cotters spread. Be sure all moving parts work freely and are properly lubricated.

Start tractor motor and, while idling, slowly engage power take-off. Let mower run slowly for awhile and observe knife, pitman connections, and other moving parts to see that they operate freely and normally. Check levers and controls to see they operate properly.

OPERATING SPEED

Under most conditions the tractor can be driven at 3-1/2 to 4 miles per hour without causing undue wear on mower. Avoid excessive speeds. Steady work accomplishes more than fast work for a time. Various mowing conditions require different mowing speeds. Best results will be obtained by running the tractor at the travel speed that will meet crop and field conditions or the speed where the smoothest mowing action results.

Tractor motor should always be kept running at a normal speed. Running the motor slow reduces the knife speed and may cause the knife to clog where cutting is heavy. Where difficult conditions make it necessary to slow down travel speed of tractor, the operator should shift the transmission to a lower gear, rather than throttle the motor to slow speed. By shifting to a lower gear, the motor can be kept at its rated R.P.M. speed which will keep the knife running at the proper speed for best results. Do not engage power take-off with motor running at high speed. To do so may cause breakage and considerable wear.

TURNING CORNERS

This mower will cut neat, square corners. It is seldom necessary to raise cutter bar at corners. Turn quickly when within a swath’s length from end, using brake to pivot right-hand wheel of tractor, where tractor is equipped with such a brake. This may be done more effectively with Wide Tread Tractors.

When turning corners to the left, run tractor in low gear. The bar swings around faster when turning in this direction and this, of course, increases the possibility of striking an unnoticed fence post or some other obstacle.

TRANSPORTING

When moving from one field to another or any considerable distance the cutter bar must be placed in its transport position. Raise cutter bar to its highest position. Hook latch rod in hole in clip welded to main frame. Raise cutter bar to an upright position. Fit other end of latch rod through ole in cutter bar and secure with tail nut. Safety First: Be sure power take-off of tractor is disengaged. When raising cutter bar by hand be sure to keep fingers away from cutting parts. When not in use latch rod fits into clips on main frame.

SAFETY SPRING RELEASE

Cutter bar swings back should a field obstruction be encountered. After the safety latch release and the cutter bar swings back it is not necessary for the operator to leave the tractor seat. Just back the tractor mower in normal position and the safety latch catches.

If the safety lock permits the cutter bar to swing back too easily, the spring tension at “A”, Figure 3, should be increased a little. Care should be taken not to tighten too much. If too tight, when cutter bar strikes an obstruction, latch will not release, resulting in breakage.

AUTOMATIC POWER LINE THROW-OUT

An automatic throw-out for power line is furnished for tractors where “Tread” or “Take-Off Shaft Location” is such that excessive angles will be placed on Universal Joints when mower opens after safety lock releases. Power Line is positively locked in, Figure 4, or out, Figure 5, by this throw-out.

When safety lock releases and cutter bar swings back, before power shaft reaches a binding position, the knuckle of the universal joint forces the drive plunger at “A”, out of engagement, thereby stopping the power line. The steel ball, “B”, in throw-out shifts from the front recess in plunger, see Figure 4, to the rear recess, see Figure 5, to lock power line out of engagement at “C”. Drive plunger is shifted back into engagement by inserting a punch or screw driver between plunger and rear end of throw-out.

CARE OF RUBBER TIRES

The caster wheel on the No. 5 Power Mower is equipped with one 4.00 x 9, 4-ply tire. Tire is inflated to correct inflation pressure before Mower is shipped from the factory. Check tire for proper inflation pressure, making periodic checks thereafter. Correct Inflation Pressure is 24 Lbs. It is very important that the tire be kept properly inflated, as considerable damage may result to the tire when proper pressure is not maintained. Lack of Pressure will allow the tire to slip on rim or to buckle the sidewalls, resulting in torn valve stems, fabric breaks and uneven tread wear. Too Much Pressure causes undue strain on fabric, excessive tread wear and allows tire to cut in more on wet ground, thus greatly increasing the draft. Avoid stumps, stones, deep ruts, and other hazards. When not using Mower, store in a dark place to keep light away from tire. When season is over, jack up Mower to take load off tire or remove caster wheel. The valve stem of tire is equipped with a valve cap to assure the sealing of the compressed air in tube. If valve cap is not kept in place, dust, fine gravel, mud and other foreign material will accumulate on valve core permitting the compressed air to escape from tire. It is important that valve cap be screwed onto valve stem, fingertight, after gauging and inflating tire to insure proper inflation pressure and a positive seal against air leaks.

STORING FOR THE WINTER

Secure front end of main frame with supports. If Mower is stored with cutter bar in vertical position, place block under shoe to relieve lifting parts—if stored with cutter bar down, unhook lifting spring. Be sure bar is not tilted so pitman is under strain—it is likely to take a permanent twist and later cause trouble; if possible remove pitman.

Clean off the dirt, tighten loose bolts, spread cotters, grease the knives and wearing parts on cutter bar, and order the repairs that will be needed before Mower is used again.

ADJUSTMENTS

SAFETY SLIP CLUTCH ON POWER SHAFT

In case the sickle should become clogged, an adjustable safety slip clutch on the power shaft protects all working parts from breakage. Before leaving the factory, the slip clutch is adjusted to meet ordinary conditions.

This slip clutch should be set tight enough to do ordinary work without slipping, but loose enough to slip easily if there is clogging.

To adjust: Turn slip clutch adjusting nut at “A”, Figure 6, forward to tighten and backward to loosen. Do not adjust more than one-half turn at a time without testing adjustment. Be sure the jaws on front side of adjusting nut “A”, Figure 6, mesh into jaws of lock collars “B”, Figure 6. If jaws are not meshed, adjusting nut could work back and change tension of spring on slip clutch.

Extreme care should be taken in making this adjustment as too much pressure on slip clutch may result in breakage, while too little pressure causes excessive slippage and undue wear.

INCREASING SPEED OF KNIFE

The regular 11-tooth sprocket on flywheel shaft in housing will operate the knife at a speed that will take care of most any crop condition that might be encountered. However, for tractors that have a slow power take-off speed or where cutting conditions are severe, a special 10-tooth sprocket, Z1063H, can be supplied. This sprocket will increase speed of knife about 10 percent.

Lubrication:

Oil from drive housing lubricates drive chain, sprockets, pitman and drive shaft bearings. Keep a good grade of SAE 140 transmission oil up to oil plug in drive housing (about 4 pints required). Oil should be drained and new oil should be put in at the beginning of each year’s cutting. Do not use burned-out crank case oil from automobile or tractor.

To Drain Oil:

Remove drain plug at bottom of drive housing. Keep breather hole in housing cover free of dirt and grit at all times.

Steel Roller Chain:

Do not run chain too tight, but it should not be loose enough to slap. Tension of chain is regulated by adjustment at rear of drive housing.

To Adjust:

Loosen set screw “D”, Figure 6, through slotted hole, and drive adjusting plate to the left to tighten and to the right to loosen. Tighten set screw. Remove housing cover frequently and inspect chain.

Bearings:

After considerable service, should looseness develop in Timken bearings for drive shaft, it should be taken up promptly by removing shims between end caps, “C”, Figure 6, and drive housing. Timkens on pitman shaft may be adjusted by removing shims between end cap and drive housing just to rear of flywheel.

CUTTER BAR

(See Figures 7 and 8.) The cutter bar of the mower, in principle, is nothing more than a multiple set of shears—the blades of shears, to cut properly, must be sharp and have a shear cut; likewise, the sections and ledge plates of a mower must be sharp and have a shear contact. Cutting edges of the ledger plates must line up the full length of the bar if ledger plates and sections are to have a shear cut, and knife holders must be set to hold front part of sections down against ledger plates and heel of sections against wearing plate but must permit knife to run without binding. Wearing plates under knife holders should be replaced when worn enough to cause sections to raise from contact with ledger plates at points. Always look for cutting troubles in the cutter bar: guards out of alignment, worn wearing plates, bent knife back, dull knife and ledger plates, and worn, improperly-set knife holders.

Aligning Guards

Aligning the guards is an important and exacting operation. A new knife or a straight one that is not badly worn, should be used in testing and setting the guards. Insert knife and set each guard up or down as necessary, to obtain a shear cut between knife section and ledger plate. Raise knife holders so knife will have clearance and will not bind or be bent when aligning guards. Have guards bolted tight and then be sure to strike them at the thick part just in front of ledger plate. Pound down high guards first and then bring up the low ones. Be sure to tighten nut on guard bolt each time after using hammer on guard. Remove knife several times as you work in order to look across the ledger plates and be sure you are getting them in line. Guard wings should also be aligned, making a smooth surface for knife back to work against. Position of guard points should not be considered—the ledger plates and wings are the important units that must be aligned.

Keep points of guards sharp. Do not pound down lips of guards— choking will result. The lip of the guard is the portion that covers the ledger plate.

Adjusting Wearing Plates

Wearing plates under knife holders should be set ahead or replaced to take up wear on knife back, and reduce play of knife back in neck of guards. In setting wearing plates ahead, there should be enough clearance left at front of sections so sections do not strike guards. Turned-down edges of wearing plates must line up with one another to give knife back a straight bearing along its entire length. Be especially careful to properly line up new plates.

Z7961H spacers must be inserted between wearing plates and Z7798H knife holders when knives equipped with extra heavy sections are used.

Setting Knife Holders

Never bend a knife holder down with knife under holder. Start at outer end of bar by pulling knife from under each holder and tapping holder down. Keep trying the knife until holder sets so knife works freely and at the same time is down on knife. Then work each holder in the same manner. If holder is too tight on knife, strike holder between the bolts while knife is under holder. A knife working tight on bar will cause heavy draft. Knife holders should not be set until after guards are aligned. Be sure all guard bolts are tight. After setting knife holders, try knife, put oil on ledger plates and be sure knife is working freely.

Replacing Ledger Plates

Ledger plates should be replaced when worn dull. Replating guards with the John Deere Mower Guard Block and Knife Repair Anvil does away with the hard work and makes it an easy job to keep cutter bar in good working order.

With the Mower Guard Block, you do not take the bar from the mower or the guards from the bar. Set the guard repair block under the bar. The only tools needed are two punches (a heavy one and a light one), a hammer and a chisel. Drive the rivet through ledger plate with heavy punch and follow rivet with small punch and drive through guard. Put on new ledger plate. Put rivet in from underside, set riveting post under head of rivet and rivet over with hammer. Chisel off end of rivet flush with ledger plate to leave a smooth surface for knife. Batter boss on rear of plate to hold plate more securely.

Knife Head Guides

Knife head guide, front, Z6010H, should be reversed if worn badly. Worn wearing plate and ledge plate on inner shoe should be replaced promptly to avoid knife head breakage.

6- and 7-Foot Cutter Bars

A crown or dish is built into the 6-foot and 7-foot cutter bars (Z6698H regular bar, 6-foot; Z6439H, regular bar, 7-foot) to compensate for the added weight of the outer shoe and guards. The 6-foot bar has a 9/16-inch dish in the center; the 7-foot has a 15/16-inch dish in the center. This automatically straightens out when the cutter bar is attached to the mower and proper lifting spring tension is applied.

Gummy Trash on Cutter Bar

Use water to remove gummy trash that packs on wearing plates and guards (operate mower slowly and pour water on bar). Do not let it harden.

Repairing of Cutter Bar

The repairing of the mower cutter bar is generally put off too long. The mower does not give satisfactory service and is abused more than necessary. This neglect is generally due to lack of proper tools and necessary repairs to make a quick, easy job. Many times new guards are put on when new ledge plates only are needed. Note the helpful suggestions for repairing in Figure 8.

CUTTER BAR TILT ADJUSTMENT

Cutter bar should be run level to the ground whenever possible. Should it be necessary to change tilt of cutter bar for short cutting or when cutting in hay that is lodged, cutter bar can be tilted by means of convenient tilting lever.

The adjustable tilting rod should be set so when tilting lever is in center notch on sector the cutter bar is level. If additional tilt is desired it can be obtained by lengthening or shortening tilting rod by adjusting turnbuckle.

ADJUSTABLE SUBSOLES

These soles under inner and outer shoes should be adjusted to regulate the height of cut for different field conditions. They will set bar to cut as high as three inches. Be sure to have cutter bar same height at both ends. On rough or stony land, the cutting parts should be protected by adjusting the subsoles to raise cutter bar.

KNIVES

The two knives packed with the bar should remain with it and be handled so they will not be bent. In sharpening knives, try to maintain angle of bevel and cutting edge of the new knife.

If knife becomes bent in rough cutting or storage, straighten it on level pole or block.

A Guard Block and Knife Repair Anvil provides the easiest and quickest way for replating guards, replacing worn or broken sections and straightening knives.

PITMAN

The knife head connection of the automatic pitman requires no attention from the operator to keep in proper adjustment. Wear on knife head is automatically taken up by spring tension, see Figure 9.

To Attach Pitman.

Hold pitman down with foot and use punch to pry up the spring, allowing pitman straps to close over knife head, see Figure 10.

To Remove Pitman.

Insert punch through hole in flat spring and into yoke plunger, and force yoke plunger back, and the flat spring down between the straps, to spread them and release the knife head, see Figure 11.

REGISTERING KNIFE

The knife registers if sections center in guards when pitman is at the inner or outer end of its stroke. A knife off register will not cut clean. Adjustable (forked) washers are provided at inner and outer ends of drag bar bearing in yoke. Knife is registered by transferring one or more washers from one end of yoke to the other and by lengthening or shortening the Brace Bar “C”. One turn of Brace Bar gives bar 1/8-inch movement. When checking knife for register, be sure pitman connections are adjusted as directed above. Be sure Mower hinge bar is hitched at correct height. Be sure that lifting spring has proper tension.

To Make Registering Adjustment:

Unhook lifting spring from lifting lever support arm. Disconnect brace bar from bracket on main frame cross member. Remove pin and collar from outer end of drag bar. Move yoke out just far enough on drag bar to permit transferring washers from one end of yoke to the other as may be necessary to re-register the knife. Adjust brace bar in socket at “C”, at flywheel end to correspond to the amount of thickness of washers transferred. When Mower is old or has had severe use and is badly worn, the brace bar socket connection can be shortened one or two turns after all other adjustments have been made. Reassemble parts and recheck knife making sure it registers.

Keep nut on yoke end of brace bar just tight enough to take up end play. Brace bar must not bind in yoke.

CUTTER BAR AND PITMAN ALIGNMENT

The mower, when it leaves the factory, has a certain amount of lead in the cutter bar – that is, the outer end is set ahead of the inner end in relation to a parallel line strung across the face of the flywheel. This construction provides for the backward strain on the bar and enables the pitman and knife to run in a straight line when cutting under ordinary conditions. No trouble is usually encountered with a new mower, but after long use, some wear may occur on shoe hinge pins and in pin bearings in yoke allowing the outer end of the bar to lag or go back until knife is running at a backward angle causing undue breakage of cutting parts and heavy draft. By means of an eccentric bearing around rear hinge pin, the outer end of the bar can be moved ahead until pitman and knife are again running in a straight line. Usually realigning pitman and knife restores the original lead of cutter bar. In some cases where wear has occurred at pull bar connections or when mower has hit an obstruction it may be necessary to adjust pull bar to move yoke as well as cutter bar ahead to the original lead. One turn of pull bar socket gives bar 1/8-inch movement.

To Check and Restore Alignment of Pitman and Knife

Be sure hinged hitch bar of mower is in a position, 10 inches or 12 inches above the ground. It is better to have mower on level ground or floor. Adjust lifting spring. Be sure cutter bar is not tilted and is parallel with ground. Pull outer end of bar back taking up slack due to wear. Tie a cord to pitman bearing box and run cord down the center of pitman stick and over center of knife head ball and out, over and beyond outer shoe, keeping it parallel with the pitman. If pitman and knife are in line, the back edge of knife back should be parallel with cord.

If pitman and knife are not in line, turn eccentric bearing around rear hinge pin to the left as far as necessary to bring the outer end of bar ahead until pitman and knife are in a straight line. Adjusting eccentric usually restores original lead as well as alignment but always check to make sure. Should bar show insufficient lead adjust pull bar. Do not use eccentric to “register” knife or to establish lead if pitman and knife are in a straight line.

To Check for Lead

Turn flywheel to put knife at outer end of stroke. Tie a cord to mower so it can be brought across the face of the flywheel and secure at a point a few inches beyond the outer shoe. Be sure cord is same distance from ground along its entire length. Measure from cord to back edge of knife at knife head end. Measure from cord to back edge of knife at outside of outer shoe. The difference between the two measurements is the amount of lead the outer shoe has over the inner end.

Proper Lead

The outer end of the cutter bar should have a lead over the inner end of: 1-1/4 inches to 1-1/2 inches on 5-foot; 1-1/2 inches to 1-3/4 inches on 6-foot; and 1-3/4 inches to 2 inches on 7-foot cutter bars.

LIFTING SPRING

There should be enough tension on lifting spring so bar will rise easily and make the bar float rather than drag, and yet move steadily over the ground. If there is not enough tension, the bar will ride on the ground and increase draft. Too much tension will not allow the bar to follow the uneven ground, and may hold it up after it has risen over a mound or other obstruction. When properly adjusted, the lifting spring carries the bulk of the weight of cutter bar and reduces the friction of bar on ground. This tension can be increased for 6- or 7-foot bars when desirable.

When using short cutter bars, should spring tension be so great that inner shoe will not follow ground, remove standard for lifting spring and bolt front end of spring to short bracket at “D”.

LIFTING CHAIN, ADJUSTING BOLT IN BELL CRANK, AND CHAIN SWIVEL ADJUSTMENT

Inner and outer end of bar should leave the ground at the same time. If outer end of bar rises too fast, screw adjusting bolt down in bell crank. If outer end rises too slow, screw adjusting bolt up enough to make both ends of bar rise evenly at the start. Chain swivel adjusting can also be shortened to take up wear and to make outer end of bar rise faster, or lengthened to make outer end of bar rise slower. Be sure lifting spring has proper tension.

ADJUSTABLE FOOT LEVER

Foot lever can be raised or lowered for the convenience of operator, and to raise the cutter bar higher without using hand lever by adjusting bolt on foot lever bracket. Foot lever can also be lengthened or shortened and moved to right or left to meet tractor requirements. Special foot levers are required for various makes of tractors.

COMMON MOWER TROUBLES AND THEIR CAUSES

Heavy Draft

1. Improper setting up.
2. Lack of lubrication.
3. Lagging of cutter bar.
4. Worn knife head, guides, knife holders or wearing plates.
5. Knife out of register.
6. Guards loose or out of line.
7. dull, broken, nicked or loose sections or ledger plates.
8. Knife holders binding.
9. Not enough tension on lifting spring.
10. Mower carried too low.
11. Too much tilt of cutter bar.
12. Lips of guards bend down too far.

Side Draft and Uneven Stubble

1. Guards loose or out of line.
2. Dull, broken, nicked or loose sections and ledger plates.
3. Worn knife head, guides, knife holders or wearing plates.
4. Not enough tension on lifting spring.
5. Knife out of register.
6. Bar lifting parts out of adjustment.
7. Knife holders not properly set.
8. Uneven adjusting of shoe soles.

Heating of Pitman Box, Drive Shaft or Crankshaft Bearings

1. Wrist pin crooked in flywheel after repairing.
2. Pitman box too long or crooked wrist pin nut.
3. Lack of lubrication.
4. Warped or twisted pitman.
5. Dirt or metal in bearings.
6. Drive shaft or crankshaft bearings out of line.
7. Drive shaft or crankshaft sprung.
8. Cutter bar need of repairing.

Knife and Knife Head Breakage

1. Worn knife head, guides, knife holders and wearing plates.
2. Warped or twisted pitman.
3. Guards loose or out of line.
4. Dull sections and ledger plates.
5. Broken or nicked sections.
6. Worn pitman box.
7. Crooked knife.
8. Knife out of register.
9. Lagging of cutter bar.
10. Mower carried too low.
11. Too much tilt of cutter bar.

Choking Down

1. Lagging of cutter bar.
2. Knife out of register.
3. Lack of lubrication.
4. Guards loose or out of line.
5. Too much tilt of cutter bar.
6. Worn cutter bar parts.
7. Bar lifting parts out of adjustment.
8. Lifting spring not properly adjusted.
9. Knife head guide bolts loose.
10. Fender rod or grass stick not properly set.
11. Knife holders not properly set.
12. Lips of guards bent down too far.
13. Dull cutting parts.

Lost Motion

1. Lack of oil in gear case.
2. Loose pitman bearing.
3. Loose pitman connections.
4. Loose drive shaft or crankshaft bearings.