Instructions for Setting Up and Operating the

McCormick-Deering Horizontal Corn Binder

Clean the paint or dirt from all shafts and bearings, oil thoroughly, and see that the parts move freely when in place. A mixture of equal parts of kerosene and good machine oil is better than oil alone for this purpose.

MAIN WHEEL fig 2.

1. Internal gear (Y764).
2. Internal gear on main wheel sleeve so that pawls will engage in notches on main wheel ratchet.
3. Roller bearings in sleeve.

MAIN FRAME fig 3.

1. Axle at main frame drive bracket (Y771).
2. Shield
3. Gear (Y814), washers and box.

BINDER fig. 4 & fig. 5

1. Binder in supports, front and rear.
2. Binder drive bracket (Y724).
3. Binder frame secured to main frame drive bracket with long pin and cotter.
4. Cotter in support.
5. Box (Y709) in bracket (Y724).
6. To have the gears in proper mesh, the outer ends of the teeth must be in line. This is done by using one or two washers as may be necessary behind gear on binder drive shaft and changing the position of adjusting washer (Y634) on packer shaft.
7. Shield.
8. Shield and quadrant (Y619).
9. Quadrant brace.
10. Knife shield.
11. Sand cap; put main wheel on axle; secure with sand cap and cotter

NEEDLE SHIELDS AND BINDER DECK BRACES fig. 6

1. Deck plate support angle.
2. Needle shield hanger (angle) at binder frame.
3. Needle shield brace, short, at binder frame.
4. and 5. Deck brace, short and deck brace, long, at place.

BINDER DECK, FRONT fig. 7 (see figures no. 11 & no. 15 also)

1. Binder deck plate at binder frame and at deck plate support angle.
2. Binder deck, front in place.
3. Binder deck front side, lower on inside of bent up portion of binder deck front.
4. Binder mitre gear shield under binder deck front.
5. Binder shifting deck guide (flat steel) between deck and binder frame. (See fig. No. 15.)
6. Binder deck support rod, left to deck and deck guide at upper end.
7. Butt retarder.

LOWER CHAIN ROD; BUTT ADJUSTER; LEVERS fig. 8

1. Gear (H558), boxes and sprocket (Y754) and box (Y807) in bracket (Y748).
2. Shaft passing down through box and into gear (H558).
3. Lower chain board, box (Y585) in board from upper side.
4. Sprocket.
5. Shortest chain around sprocket. Chain guide (Y507) to post.
6. Chain tightener sprocket (with Y415 oil cup).
7. Outer gatherer support angle.
8. Main frame angle-secure shield.
9. Straighten up angle and tighten nut on bolt.
10. Butt adjuster. Place crank in box, and link (Y738) over stud; secure with cotter.
11. Bracket (Y700)
12. Butt adjuster lever at quadrant.
13. Shifter rod.
14. Binder shifter quadrant (Y633).
15. Binder shifter lever.
16. Shifter rod.
17. Lower chain spring rod in upright angle.
18. Knuckle (Y744) on end of butt adjuster crank. (In all cases, place the sleeve portion of knuckle down on square end of shaft.)

INNER GATHERER fig. 9 (see fig. 14 also)

1. Extension to gatherer angle.
2. Sprocket (Y626).
3. Butt adjuster drive chain (33 links No. 45).
4. Gatherer in place, with bell knuckle over knuckle (Y744).
5. Board to support, brace center and gatherer angle extension.
6. Brace to front bolt in bracket (Y834). Adjust nuts on lower end until gatherer board is straight.
7. Square shaft.
8. Inner gatherer board brace angle at under side of lug. Inner gatherer drive gear shield, right (Y2185), and inner gatherer drive shaft center shield (Y2901). (See figure No. 10A also.)
9. Brace at angle extension. (See figure No. 10A also.)
10. Top board extension at top board.
11. Brace at top board extension.
12. Fender rods.
13. Shield at gatherer board and post.
14. Butt adjuster carrier rod brace (Y2902, with bolt and HA267 bushing) at underside of upper belt hole in butt adjuster crank shaft box (Y538). (See figure No. 10A.)

OUTER GATHERER fig. 11

1. Large sheet steel piece at outer gatherer angle and inner side of lower chain board (see figure No. 12 also).
2. Extension to outer gatherer angle.
3. Adjuster crank at angle extension.
4. Raise and lower crank to place.
5. Secure latch to main frame with 7/16 x 7/8” pin and 3/16 x ¾” cotter.
6. Grain wheel raise and lower segment (Y615).
7. Adjusting rod.
8. Gatherer in place. Secure adjuster crank to hinge (YA739) with ½ x 1 ½” carriage bolt (see figure No. 12A).
9. Board at support.
10. Knuckle ring on shaft.
11. Square shaft in place.
12. Secured fender rod.
13. Grain wheel – placing collar between roller bearings. Secure with sand cap and cotter.
14. Fender stick at bracket.

Figures No. 16 and 17 show how the outer gatherer may be adjusted for tall or short corn. For tall corn, use the gatherer in the position shown in figure No. 16. For short corn, the gatherer should be lowered to the position shown in figure No. 17.

BINDER DECK, REAR fig. 15

1. Shield in place.
2. Binder deck support rod, right to place.
3. Shield to place; rear bolt takes deck, shield, binder shifting deck guide and binder deck support rod, right.
4. Binder deck, rear to deck plate.
5. Deck heads, center and rear to deck, rear.
6. Deck side, rear to place with clip over deck side slide.
7. Deck braces to place (see figure No. 16).
8. Stripper to upper side of breastplate.
9. Stripper brace in place.
10. 3rd discharge arm.
11. Discharge arm stripper.
12. Breastplate shield to binder spring rail and in breastplate flanges.

ADJUSTMENTS FOR TALL CORN fig. 16

1. Put on twine can.
2. Put on deck extension rod.

ADJUSTMENTS FOR SHORT CORN fig. 17

To lower the gatherer for use in short corn, proceed as follows:

1. Lower the deck side rear extension “A.”
2. Lower the deck front side upper extension “B.”
3. Disconnect at “C,” “D” and “F.”
4. Remove cotter at “E.” Without removing the square shaft, lower the gatherer to the position shown in illustration No. 17.
5. Secure the parts at “C,” “D” and “F.”

BUNDLE CARRIER fig. 18

1. Bundle carrier with fingers in place, as shown in figure No. 18.
2. Crank pivot (Y773) to main sill.
3. Dump crank in eye of bundle carrier pipe support front (YA800) and secured YA800 to main frame, with crank resting in pivot (Y773).
4. Support, rear to binder deck.
5. Bundle carrier pipe to supports, front and rear.
6. Trip rod to dump crank.
7. Foot crank in foot crank support (Y772) and seat spring and Y772 to stub tongue (See figure No. 20 also).
8. Trip rod link to foot crank and connect rear end to dump crank.
9. Shield to place.
10. Extension sheet to deck.
11. Clip to crank with cotter.

TONGUE AND TILTING CONNECTIONS fig. 21

1. Tilting quadrant to stub tongue.
2. Tilting lever to quadrant.
3. Draw irons to stub tongue.
4. Bolt tilting link to tongue with ½ x 5 3/8” machine bolt and two washers.
5. Tongue brace to main frame.
6. Tongue brace to tongue.
7. Oil can holder to tool box.
8. Tool box to tongue.

After machine is set up, go over it carefully. See that all nuts are thoroughly tightened and all cotters in place and spread.

OILING

Use nothing but the best machine oil. It is the cheapest in the end. Oil frequently, particularly during the first day or two with a new machine. As a general rule, frequent use of small quantities of oil gives better results than larger quantities used at longer intervals. Be sure that the oil holes are free from dirt and paint, and see that the oil gets into the bearings.

While the bearings of all moving parts require oil regularly, fast moving parts require particular attention. Keep the bearings of butt adjuster, packers, knotter, bevel gear shaft, binder drive shaft and needle shaft well oiled.

The gatherer and prostrator sprockets, bell knuckles and knuckle rings require frequent attention.

The pitman bearing is provided with an oil cup for hard grease. Give the plug a turn frequently and see that the grease is forced into the bearing. Oil the pitman where it enters the sickle head and the sickle where it passes under the guides and holders.

The large internal gear on the main wheel should be greased occasionally. This may be done by forcing out the shield with a screw driver and placing the grease on the teeth.

Use nothing but oil on the roller bearings in the main and grain wheels.

The oil cups on the binder driving gears may be easily reached through the hole in the binder deck.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADJUSTING AND OPERATING

CHAINS

Do not tighten chains more than is necessary to make them run without slipping. The wear on the chain and the draft of the machine is considerably increased by having the chains too tight.

The chains may be tightened or loosened as follows:

Loosen the nut on the bolt that secures the tightener sprocket. With a wrench on the tightener pinion (Y769) (below the board) turn to the right or left until the chain is as tight as desired, then tighten nut on bolt.

Run the chains with the hooked end of link forward as illustrated. On the upper chain on outer gatherer this will bring the tooth on the carrier link away from the board. On all the other chains with toothed links, the tooth will be on the lower side of chain or next to the board.

After the machine has been in operation an hour or two, it will be found that the chains have stretched a little, and should be tightened accordingly.

For cutting tall ensilage corn, the upper chain (figure 12) and the pointed butt retarder (No. 7, figure 7) should be used. The lower chain should be removed and the spring rod should be held in an upright position against the angle as shown in figure 10.

For cutting very short corn, the lower chain (figures 8 and 9) should be used. Remove the butt retarder and bring the lower chain spring rod down to position as shown in figure 9, in order to press the corn against the lower chain. The butt retarder and lower chain should never be used at same time.

In down or tangled corn, the gatherer chains may be brought down nearer the points. Move the tightener sprockets, and tightener bracket (Y767) (on under side of board) down to the lower slotted holes in the boards. The wooden blocks above the sprockets should also be moved.

Keep extra links for lengthening the chain in the tool box.

LEVERS

The tilting lever, binder shifter lever, and butt adjuster lever, are all within easy reach of the operator. The perfection of binding depends on the care and skill with which they are used.

In standing corn the machine may be run nearly level. When corn is down or tangled, the machine should be tilted so that the gatherer points are close to the ground. The range of tilt may be varied by means of the tilting link which has three holes for adjustment.

Shift the binder forward or back so that it will bind in the center of the bundle. In corn of average length the butt adjuster may be set about half way back and left there. In long corn, bring the butt adjuster as far forward as possible, and move the binder back. In very short corn it may be necessary to shift the binder as far forward as possible and set the butt adjuster well back to carry the corn to the binder.

TO REMOVE THE PITMAN AND SICKLE

Turn the crank wheel until the pin is in front. Slacken the check nut on the pitman rod behind the head about one-fourth turn. Remove the pin that secures the pitman bushing to the crank pin. The bushing may then be slipped out. Press down on the pitman head, at the same time turning the top of head to the rear. This will remove the head from the crank pin and the pitman and sickle may then be pulled out in front of the main wheel. Do not forget to tighten the check nut on pitman rod when pitman is again put in place. The pitman is adjusted to the proper length when the machine is sent out, and care must be taken that the position of the head is not changed.

TIMING THE BINDER

When replacing mitre gear (Y590) or clutch gear (H667) proceed as follows:

On the upper face of gear (Y590) and in line with the pin hole a timing mark is cast. On the outer face of the gear (H667) the letter “L” is cast. Secure gear (Y590) to shaft, then place gear (H667) on shaft, meshing it with gear (Y590) so that the two timing marks are in line with each other.

When replacing cam gear (Y452) or pinion (Y589) mesh the gears so that the timing mark on pinion (Y589) is in line with the center of the pin hole in cam gear (Y452).

TO THREAD THE NEEDLE

Start the twine from the inside of ball, and pass it through the eye on under side of twine can cover, out through hole in can, under the twine tension lever and through the guides on twine can and the string eye under binder deck. Now put the twine through the small hole at back of needle, from the front side, along the groove and through eye of needle, from the front side, along the groove and through eye of needle. Draw out the end of twine and hold it, pass the binder through an operation by pressing the trip arm downward, then turn the discharge arms around once.

It is best to tie a band before starting the binder. Proceed as follows: Pull out any desired length of twine and hold the loop firmly in the hand;

trip the binder and put the discharge arms through another revolution; pull the band off the knotter hook when the discharge arms are nearest the binder deck.

BINDER ATTACHMENT AND KNOTTER

General Instructions: All binders are carefully adjusted and tested at the factory before they are sent out, and are in condition to run successfully, if the adjustments are not changed. If, when starting, the binder should miss a few bundles, do not tamper with it, but allow it to wear a little; the action of the twine upon the parts will smooth any roughness caused by paint.

Experts or operators are warned not in any manner to mutilate the knotter. Cold chisels, files, punches and hammers should be kept away from it. A wrench, little oil and reasonably good sense is all that is required.

Adjusting: If knotter fails to work satisfactorily, refer to the illustration and special instructions before making any adjustment.

Make adjustments carefully, as the average operator will usually give the set screw a full turn each time he attempts an adjustment, and this is frequently the cause of failure to correct the trouble. Give the set screw a quarter of a turn each time a change is made. If the trouble is not overcome by adjusting in one direction, be sure and change the screw back to its original position. Then try adjusting in the opposite direction.

Don’t make spring too tight on knotter or it will break the twine.

Needle is set exactly the right point before binder leaves the factory and MUST NOT BE CHANGED. Binder works best when just enough tension is kept on twine to prevent it from getting slack.

Do not try to regulate size or tightness of bundles with the tension or twine can or by adjusting the knotter spring.