Instructions for Setting Up and Operating the

P&O No. 2 Diamond Gang Plow

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SETTING UP

Remove all wires and arrange parts conveniently.

Oil all bearings and moving parts as you proceed, and see that they work freely.

Bolts must be used in the holes in which they are found, or in parts to which they are attached, unless otherwise shown.

Shaded portions in the illustrations show parts to be assembled; these must be placed on the machine in the order numbered.

See Illustration No. 2

1. Turn ratchet up and bolt to frame.
2. Raise frame a trifle, remove spring anchor and set collar from land axle, shove axle through left side bearing, replace spring anchor and collar and shove axle through bearing in ratchet.
3. Place land lever over ratchet, shove axle on through into square on lever socket, tighten nut on axle, take all slack out between lever socket and bearing and tighten set collar on axle.
4. Bolt furrow wheel axle (complete with lever) to projecting ends on front corner of frame; tighten set collar on axle.
5. Remove grease cap. Put on 34” land wheel, secure inner end with sand bands and outer end with collar and pin through axle. Put on grease cap; use the cap as a grease cup and continue to force the grease in until the entire bearing is well oiled. Secure cap with set screw.
6. Put on 24” furrow wheel in the same manner.
7. Bolt raising link to right foot lever arm.
8. Bolt left foot lever to bracket in position shown in Illustration No. 3. If lever does not force plow down to stops, move bracket forward in frame.
9. Bolt right foot lever spool to foot lever in position shown in Illustration No. 6.

See Illustration No. 3

1. Tilt plow forward and put on rear wheel axle, complete.
2. Remove grease cap. Put on 20” rear wheel, secure inner end with sand bands and outer end with collar and pin through axle. Put on grease cap; use the cap as a grease cup and continue to force the grease in until the entire bearing is well oiled. Secure cap with set screw.
3. Attach scraper; secure with set screw.
4. Put controlling rod arm on square of rear axle, pointing in the same direction as hub of rear wheel. Put on controlling rod by inserting bent end through sliding block from below; secure with cotters. Put adjusting pivot through hole in arm from top; secure with cotter. (It will be necessary to push block out into end of socket in arm on front axle before the rod can be put in place.)
5. Attach seat spring and seat.
6. Attach coulters; secure with cotters. See that the lip of washer on end of shank is exactly between the arms of yoke when the blade is in line with the plow.

See Illustration No. 4

1. Attach land axle spring and tighten same.
2. Tighten raising spring with hand wheel. (See Illustration No. 6 also.)
3. Remove clevis from hitch brackets and bolt hitch brackets to frame. (See Illustration No. 7 also.)
4. Attach clevis to hitch brackets, about in line with long beam, long end down.
5. Attach evener bar to clevis (strap point down on right end).
6. Attach whiffletrees to evener bar.
7. Bolt tongue to tongue plate; at the same time put on oil can socket.

See Illustration No. 5

1. Attach neckyoke to eyebolt on front end of tongue.

Illustration No. 6 – Detail of Raising Spring, etc.

Illustration No. 7 – Detail of Hitch.

See Illustration No. 8

1. Attach weed hooks as illustrated.

Illustration No. 9 – P&O No. 2 Diamond Gang Plow, front view.

REMOVE THE VARNISH BEFORE STARTING PLOW!

Plow bottoms, rolling coulters and other parts of P&O implements finished with a high polish are varnished before leaving the factory to prevent rust. Good work cannot be accomplished until the varnish is removed.

Varnish Remover. For this purpose, use a regular prepared varnish remover which can be obtained from almost any hardware or drug store handling a line of paints.

Concentrated Lye. Another method is to secure ordinary concentrated lye and mix it with water, making liquid strong enough to remove the varnish. One small can of ordinary lye to one quart of water will be sufficient to remove the varnish from one plow bottom. The lye may be applied by attaching cloth or waste on end of stick. After applying the lye, let it stand for about fifteen minutes, and if necessary repeat the operation.

Whichever method is pursued, be sure that all the varnish is removed before putting the plow into the ground.

OILING

All bearings and working parts should be kept well oiled. Oil caps on wheel boxes should be filled daily.

INSTRUCTION FOR ADJUSTING AND OPERATING

FRONT FURROW WHEEL

Loosen bolts holding front furrow wheel axle bracket to corner of frame and move front furrow wheel in or out as required to give front plow the right width of furrow.

From outside of point of share to inside edge of tire on wheel on 12-inch plow should measure 11-1/2 inches; on 14-inch plow, should measure 13-1/2 inches. In all cases the distance between the outside of point of share and inside edge of tire on front furrow wheel should be 1/2 inch less that size of plow. After making the adjustment, tighten bolts securely.

TONGUE

Adjust tongue on tongue plate so front furrow wheel inclines a little toward furrow bank. Where large horse is working in the furrow, turn the tongue plate upside down on arm on top of axle and set tongue over from furrow horse about 6 inches. If tongue crowds second horse from furrow, set tongue back on arm 2 inches.

REAR FURROW WHEEL

Adjust rear furrow wheel to run in corner of furrow bank.

If landside bears against the bank, loosen lock nut and screw the set screw out on the left side of rear axle bracket. Then loosen lock nut on set screw on right side of bracket and screw in on set screw until landside runs from 1/8 to 1/4 inch away from bank; tighten lock nuts on set screws.

Adjust controlling rod so rear furrow wheel runs 1/4 inch farther from bank at front than at rear. On hillside land, adjust controlling rod to run rear furrow wheel straight.

HITCH

Hitch up or down on vertical clevis according to height of horses and length of tugs, to divide the weight on front and rear furrow wheels.

Adjust the hitch to the right or left on wrought clevis as required, to run front furrow wheel in corner of furrow.

PLOW BOTTOMS

The rear end of landside on rear bottom should set 1/2 inch above bottom of furrow. If heels of landsides are too high and plows running too much on the point of shares, loosen bots in rear bail brackets and move brackets towards the rear slightly. This will lower the heel of landsides. When lowered to 1/2 inch, tighten bolts securely. Adjust stop under right hand corner of rear bail. Adjust front bail stops so front bail rests on stops and tighten all bolts.

A more simple adjustment may be made on the rear furrow wheel axle. To lower the heel of landside, loosen the bolt and set screw in collar under rear axle frame bracket and lower rear end of frame until heel of landside sets 1/2 inch above bottom of furrow; then tighten bolt and set screw in collar. Loosen bolt in collar on top side of frame bracket and move collar down on bracket; see that lip on collar is in center between shoulder on rear frame bracket and tighten bolt in collar securely.

COULTERS

Set the coulters with center of coulter over point of plow for plowing in average ground. In hard ground, the center of coulter should be set will back of point of plow. Do not run coulters too deep in hard ground as they will ride the plow out and take the weight off the wheels. In trashy ground or in land where the plow scours with difficulty, the coulters should be set farther ahead. In both cases they should be set about 1/2 inch from and parallel with landside.

When combination coulters and jointers are used, adjust the coulters as described above and adjust the jointer blade to run on an average of 11/2 inches deep. Adjust jointer point close to coulter blade and see that coulter turns freely and does not touch jointer point. Jointer may be adjusted to or from coulter by adjustable clamp on left hand side of coulter yoke. To adjust jointer point towards coulter, loosen rear bolt in clamp and tighten slightly on front bolt. To adjust jointer point away from coulter, loosen front bolt in clam and tighten slightly on rear bolt.

BALANCE SPRING

Adjust tension on spring so plow lifts easily. Adjust foot lever up or down for raising the plow, according to length of legs of operator, and move seat forward or back on seat spring as required.

WEED HOOKS

Adjust weed hooks forward or back on beams according to depth of furrow and raise or lower point of hooks as required.

TO OPEN UP A NEW FURROW

For opening up a new furrow or for any ordinary change in depth, use the front furrow wheel lever. Level the plow with the land lever.

P&O QUICK DETACHABLE SHARES

IXL Stubble and Scotch Clipper bottoms are equipped with the P&O Quick Detachable Shares. The loosening of one bolt releases the share for sharpening or for putting on a new one. The P&O Quick Detachable Share is held rigidly in place by the tightening of the one bolt and, when drawn up, the frog is wedged in between the share and a steel pin in the stub landside (see Illustration No. 11) which makes it impossible for the share to work loose.

Note that these bottoms are built with the famous P&O Double-ribbed Malleable Frog. Those ribs brace the mold against the landside, which in turn is supported by the bank of the furrow, which accounts for the great rigidity of the P&O Bottom.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SHARPENING P&O PLOW SHARES

Modern plow manufacturers have expended large sums of money for the purpose of giving the farmer the best plow shares that can be produced. Refrigerating plants have been installed to maintain the tempering bath at a uniform temperature; the best three-ply soft center steel that can be produced is used. In fact, nothing is left undone that will produce a plow share so hard that it will scour and polish like a mirror, yet withstand the strain and shock incident to heavy plowing; and all that has been accomplished along the lines above mentioned can be undone in a few minutes by the first man who sharpens the share, either through lack of knowledge or carelessness.

The average blacksmith, after removing the share from the plow, plunges it into a big broad fire to heat preparatory to sharpening, oft-times setting it on edge in the fire; this is wrong, as it permits the heat to extend over the entire surface of the share, withdrawing the hardness that the manufacturers were so careful to conserve. It also causes it to warp and lose its original shape, causing annoyance in replacing the share on the plow.

To properly sharpen the plow share:

Build a fire on the forge suitable for this particular work. This is done by banking the fire, allowing only a small opening in the side for the blaze and heat to escape. Commence with the point of the share. Insert this into the fire just far enough to heat the part you wish to draw, never permitting the heat to extend farther back on the share than is absolutely necessary. Draw this down to the proper shape and thickness, which should be as near the original bevel as possible. After the point has been finished, work back toward the heel or wing of the share, never heating more than 1-1/2 inches from the edge and 2-1/2 inches wide. It is important to keep hammering after the steel has changed from a red heat to a black, as this makes the edge tough and hard, giving a wearing surface that will last much longer.

If once down the share is not sufficient, reheat; but confine the heated part to the above measurements. In working along the cutting edge, keep it straight. In so doing you will avoid having to go back and reset the edge.

Shares used on wheel plows should have no wing bearing. These instructions refer to both hard and crucible steel shares.

P&O PLOW BOTTOMS

Different soils require different bottoms.

P&O Bottoms are of superior design, and when used in the soils for which they are intended will give 100% efficiency.

IXL Stubble Series. For use in wheat, rye or oat stubble or any land that had been in small grain. (See Illustration No. 12.)

IXL Scotch Clipper Series. For use in clover, timothy or alfalfa sod, and stubble land under average conditions. (See Illustration No. 13.)

Breaker Series. This bottom is designed for breaking blue-grass sod or virgin soil. The mold is very long, with a slow, easy turn, and throws the sod completely over. For use in sod only. A mold extension is furnished and can be used or not. (See Illustration No. 14.)

Rod Breaker Series. In land in which a mold of the breaker type is preferable, our Rod Breaker Bottoms are unsurpassed. They have the same shape, and turn the furrow the same as the solid breaker. (See Illustration No. 15.)