Workshop Experience

The Blacksmith & Wheelwright, Vol. XLV, No. 3, New York, March 1902

BABBITTING A PULLEY

From R.L. Parsons, Patagonia, Arizona – In replying to a recent correspondent who inquired for the best method of babbitting a pulley with a 2-inch hole, so that it would work on a 1-inch shaft, I submit herewith my method of doing the job.

First drill a ½-inch hole, as shown as A in sketch, in center of hub. Run drill through box to opposite side, and bore deep enough to form a tit on Babbitt (B in sketch). Then clean from every trace of grease. Take a piece of writing paper a little wider than the length of hub, and wrap it around the shaft one thickness where bearing comes (D in sketch). Fasten neatly with mucilage and allow it to dry. Place shaft in hub and true up with three hardwood or iron wedges ¼ x ½ x 3/8, or ½ inch at each end of hub (C C C in sketch). Take a piece of cardboard 2 ½ inches in diameter, and cut a round hole 1 inch in center for washer, and place on shaft at each end of hub. Dam with putty or stiff dough. Take good heat on Babbitt and pour in without stopping, until filled. When cool, take out shaft, clean off the paper, and you will have no trouble—unless you let your subscription to The Blacksmith and Wheelwright run out.

From M.R. Myers, Pleasant Hill, Ohio – Replying to the inquiry of a recent correspondent, I would say that during the Summer season I work at millwrighting, and have reduced or babbitted the bore of a number of pulleys, and think the plan we use a very simple and effective one. I use a soft-pine or poplar block, say 7/8 x 3 x 3. On this block I strike a circle with a pair of compasses 2 inches in diameter, the size of the bore to be babbitted. Then bore a hole in the block the size of the shaft, and cut away the part of side of the 2- inch circle to a depth of 3/16 inch. This gives a rim stand 3/16 inch high that fits the hub of the pulley. Put collar on shaft, slip on the block and pulley, as shown, and the device will center the shaft. The pulley should be laid on its side and collar put on it about 2 feet above, from which to the rim of the pulley there ought to be three or four strips of wood to hold pulley square.

WELDING A BROKEN SHAFT

From Alfred Canuteson, Norse, Texas – Having enjoyed the contributions from brother smiths in the columns of The Blacksmith and Wheelwright, I feel it is about time that I should contribute something to the general fund of information from my own experience, though the offering I send herewith is not very ambitious. Still, I trust it may be of service to some brother smith.

We all know that shaft irons generally break at the bolt holes, and we also know that if we upset the irons to be welded, as they should be, the iron, when welded, will be quite a bit shorter than it was originally, which makes it necessary to rebore from one to three of the holes and also cut the shaft according to the length of the iron, all of which not only takes a great deal of time, but in a measure disfigures the shaft, and that in its turn displeases the customer. For the sake of illustration we will take a shaft broken at the second hole from the eye, and proceed thus:

Take the short piece with the eye, upset, and scarf as usual, then take the other part of the iron, upset and scarf. Take a piece of soft steel, 1/8 inch thick, and as wide as the shaft iron, about 2 inches long; draw down both ends very thin, as shown at A. Double the steel over the end of shaft iron as at B, and weld, using Cherry Heat Welding Compound; then proceed to weld the two parts together. I find this to be an entirely satisfactory method if the instructions are closely followed.

THE BEST SHOE FOR KNEE ACTORS

From C.D. Sparks, Liberty, Missouri – Noticing an inquiry for a sketch of the best shoe for knee actors, I enclose such a sketch herewith, and trust that it will be understood by the brother without further explanation.

MAKING A SWIVEL HOOK

From Frank C. Books, West Point, New York – If I had the job of making the swivel hook shown in a recent issue of The Blacksmith and Wheelwright I should do it as indicated by the enclosed sketches, after the parts had been prepared as shown in the first sketch. Having A cold, I would take a good heat on B, and insert A in B, as shown in the second sketch; then swage down the shoulders on B, as shown in the third sketch. Cool off A and warm up B, and work it, and it will turn readily. Made in this way it is not so much of a task as the brother who suggested it seemed to think.

TO PUT RIMS ON HEAVY WHEELS

From A.J. Mann, Liberal, Indiana – In a recent issue of The Blacksmith and Wheelwright a reader asked how to put rims on heavy wheels. My method is to drive the spokes, then saw them off to the right length and cut a double tenon on the spokes, as shown in the accompanying sketch. If this is done there will be no trouble in putting on the rims.

MAKING A SOCKET WEDGE

From R.W. Enterline, Deodate, Pennsylvania – I enclose a sketch showing how I make a socket wedge, which may be of interest to some brother readers.

Take a piece of iron about 2 inches round and 7 inches long; taper off a little as at A, Fig. 1; then take a piece of 3 x 3/8 and make a ring to fit over A. Have the ring scarfed off at one end to make the lap. Drive ring over round piece so that it sticks tightly. Make a thick paste of clay, water and horse manure; fill up socket with this paste; put in firmly and give a good welding heat. Weld down in one heat, as in Fig. 3. As soon as the welding is worked out, clean out your socket and split, as at B, Fig. 2, and make a piece of cast steel, C, to fit in split. Cut a few hooks in steel, and cool steel to make hooks hard enough to cut in wedge. Heat wedge bright red, placing the steel in place. Hold against hardy lengthwise on anvil and drive down your laps, welding steel in. Drive out one edge as in Fig. 3, then heat, and make grooves on both sides to keep it from jumping when driven in log.

HANDY TONGS

From J.E. Venard, Oakland, Ohio – I enclose a rough sketch of two pair of tongs that I find very handy. Fig. 1 is for handling point shares, and Fig. 2 is for narrow teeth, one jaw being arched so that it will hold tooth firmly.

HANDY SHOEING KNIFE

From H.L. Childers, Clio, Iowa – Enclosed please find sketch of a handy shoeing knife of my own devising. I have been using this kind of knife for over two years and like them so much better than those I can buy that I give it to your readers, hoping they will find it as satisfactory as I have. It will be readily seen that the drop shank lets the knife down in the bottom of the foot and prevents the cutting of the hand or the sharp end of the hoof. The blade should drop about ½ or 5/8 inch, and stand back from the point of the blade about 3/8 inch from a straight line with the handle. The blade should be 2 ½ inches long, and the handle 7 inches long, to give room for both hands; or it can be made shorter, if preferred.